Maison Margiela
Margiela stays tried and true to his signature minimalistic and deconstructivist vision in this spring’s couture collection. These pieces are the perfect representation of what I love and admire about this designer; rather than using busy prints or extravagant fabrics, Margiela focuses on “returning to the article’s essence” and exercises a new kind of luxury. He designs with the mindset that the core of true luxury lies in “stripping away everything that is not essential”. [1] I am especially drawn to the second garment, which utilizes textures to create a classically minimalistic design with an interesting surrealist flare. This look has garnered a lot of positive feedback and was even featured on the front page of Vogue’s Spring 17 Couture review.
Armani Privé
Armani’s couture line took a 180 degree turn with the introduction of an “orange is the new black” coloration in his new Spring line. Developed in 2005, Privé is known for its luxurious red carpet appropriate gowns featuring chic, understated tones of taupe and grey. [2] It is hard to believe that these bright, colorful pieces were produced by the same designer, or that the line would take such a risky approach in introducing what Armani explained to be “the new generation of Armani”. Orange, typically synonymous with jail uniforms and Halloween, was first introduced in the collection via small accents of embroidery (as seen in image one and three above). As the show progressed, more and more orange was introduced in the form of shells under Armani’s signature peak-shoulder jacket, and blew up into full on crystal-embroidered dresses and carrot-colored capes.
When inquired as to why the designer chose this bold shade, Armani explained that he loved the optimism of the color, and felt it was time to reintroduce the brand to the new generation of consumers. While orange may not be the ideal shade to be featured on the red carpet, he believes the reinvigoration will bring a whole new, younger audience to the brand. [3]
Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen has been recognized as one of today’s most forward thinking designers, utilizing a combination of computer-generated graphic designs and untraditional materials to fashion what she calls “New Couture”. [4] Each garment’s patterns were digitally designed ,but molded and painted (by hand!) on a blend of polyurethane and pigment, creating interesting shapes and optical illusions as each model walked down the runway. [5] For her most recent couture collection, van Herpen collaborated with Italian artist Esther Stocker to design a futuristic backdrop that would accent garments from the collection.
This whole collection was extremely different from anything else featured this season, and seemed to draw inspiration from the likes of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga. In a time where clear plastic booties and minimalism are all the rage, van Herpen’s unconventional designs are sure to garner admiration and inspire artists of all different platforms.
Alexandre Vauthier
Alexandre Vauthier has successfully found the perfect balance between couture and casual in this season’s ultra sporty yet sexy collection. Nowadays it seems everyone wants to dress casual, and the desire for ultra frilly, couture items is quickly dissipating. While the collection still included couture elements such as taffeta tops with sweeping trains and leather minis with puffy mutton sleeves, these pieces were broken by casual elements such as denim shorts and studded belts. [6]
Vauthier’s decision to make couture more approachable reflects his sensitivity and understanding of today’s zeitgeist, as well as his ability to remain on trend despite the so called “decline of couture”. The designer’s angular, asymmetrical forms paired perfectly with his minimalist runway design, and appealed to both lovers of haute couture and casual streetwear alike.
ACADEMIC INSIGHTS:
[1] BLOOMSBURY FASHION CENTRAL “Margiela, Martin”
[2] NY MAGAZINE “Armani Prive”
[3] WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY “Giorgio Armani Privé Spring Couture 2017”
[5] WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY “Iris van Herpen Spring Couture 2017”
[6] WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY “Alexandre Vauthier Spring Couture 2017”
Lieutalica. by Tiffanie Sayaka 